Working with stretch fabric can be intimidating, especially if you’re not sure what tension to use. Using the wrong tension can result in puckering, stretching, or even breaking of the fabric. In this article, we’ll discuss the appropriate tension for different types of stretch fabrics.
Main Content
Before we dive into the specifics, let’s first understand what tension is. Tension refers to the amount of pull or resistance on the thread as it passes through the machine. The correct tension is critical for producing high-quality stitches without damaging the fabric.
Knits
Knit fabrics, such as jersey, interlock, and ribbed knit, have a lot of stretch and require a looser tension. A good starting point is to reduce the tension by one or two notches from the standard setting. Test the stitch on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project to make sure it looks and feels right.
Stretch Wovens
Stretch wovens, such as stretch denim or stretch cotton, have less stretch than knits and require a slightly tighter tension. Start with the standard setting and test on a scrap of fabric. If the stitches look loose or the fabric is puckering, tighten the tension slightly.
Spandex or Lycra
Spandex or Lycra fabrics have the most stretch and require the tightest tension. Set the tension to the standard setting or slightly higher and test on a scrap of fabric. If the stitches look too tight or the fabric is puckering, loosen the tension slightly.
Other Factors
Keep in mind that other factors can also affect the appropriate tension, such as the weight of the fabric, the type of thread used, and the needle size. Always test on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project to ensure the correct tension.
FAQ
What happens if I use the wrong tension?
Using the wrong tension can result in puckering, stretching, or even breaking of the fabric. It can also result in uneven or unsightly stitches.
What should I do if the stitches look too tight or too loose?
If the stitches look too tight, loosen the tension slightly. If they look too loose, tighten the tension slightly. Always test on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project.
Can I use the same tension for all types of stretch fabrics?
No, different types of stretch fabrics require different tensions. Knits require a looser tension, while spandex or Lycra require a tighter tension. Always test on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project.
What needle size should I use for stretch fabrics?
Use a needle specifically designed for stretch fabrics, such as a ballpoint or stretch needle. The appropriate size will depend on the weight of the fabric.
Can I adjust the tension while sewing?
Yes, you can adjust the tension while sewing. Stop the machine and adjust the tension as needed based on the stitch you’re seeing.
What type of thread should I use for stretch fabrics?
Use a stretchy, elastic thread specifically designed for stretch fabrics. This will help prevent the thread from breaking or snapping while sewing.
What type of stitch should I use for stretch fabrics?
Use a stretch stitch, such as a zigzag or a stretch stitch setting on your machine. This type of stitch will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches.
How can I prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing?
Use a walking foot or a stretch needle to help prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing. You can also use pins or clips to hold the fabric in place.
Pros
Using the correct tension for stretch fabrics will result in high-quality stitches without damaging the fabric. It will also prevent puckering, stretching, or breaking of the fabric.
Tips
Always test on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project. Use a needle specifically designed for stretch fabrics and a stretchy, elastic thread. Use a stretch stitch and consider using a walking foot or stretch needle to prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing.
Summary
When working with stretch fabrics, it’s important to use the appropriate tension to prevent damage to the fabric and ensure high-quality stitches. Different types of stretch fabrics require different tensions, so always test on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project. Use a needle specifically designed for stretch fabrics and a stretchy, elastic thread. Use a stretch stitch and consider using a walking foot or stretch needle to prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing.